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Hate it when pads pull up when soldering. Thankfully there are workarounds. 9
Hate it when pads pull up when soldering. Thankfully there are workarounds.
Hate it when pads pull up when soldering. Thankfully there are workarounds.
Noice
Always happens to me ;_;
You should see the keyboard I’m using right now, ripped pads and traces, made it all work with a bunch of jumper wires… ugly as fuck but works.
I wish I would have known how to salvage pulled pads. I’ve angrily chucked out many a PCB and started over from scratch.
I’m sorry pads? Please explain (non sarcastic voice)
Is your soldering iron’s temperature set to “literally surface of the Sun”?
Grind the solder mask off at the side and tin it to accept a trace.
Never had that happen to me. What temperature is your soldering iron? And how much force are you using?
Because the answers to those questions should be, just barely enough to do the job.
You need a higher wattage iron or use a reflow gun to heat up the area near it. I like reflow gun more as you heat the whole ground pad for a bit before you solder the places with large ground pads.
You can get replacement barrels for them. You put them through, flat side facing the same as the trace connecting the broken pad. You then crush the top tall piece to grab the board. ( I usually use a repair trace with a pad with a hole on the end and put it under the barrel). Then flux, tin and check your continuity. If you’re good, clean with IPA then toss some conformal coating on all exposed traces.
You can do it rough with a few traces put through the hole and connecting it to the pad/trace. That way the component lead goes right alongside the traces running through the hole. Trim, flix and solder. Check continuity and go.
If it was a multilayer board you might have been SOL without an commercial electronics repair setup.