It’s pretty obvious – the one on the right is hooked up to a power source. That’s going to draw significantly more current than the two that are isolated.
Besides the caps, it looks like board 3 is just a coated perf board, with cheaper parts. Even the power diodes are differently numbered on board 3, plus smaller in size. The first two boards use an M7F power diode and board 3 uses a cheaper, A7 power diode. Ouch.
reverse polarity goes pop
how long till it went “BANG”?
LOL – boiling electrolyte stinks.
Huh…was power draw way up? Kinda surprised that made it past even the most barebones backend quality check.
I see the caps, but the middle driver doesn’t look like it’s touching the heat sink either.
1. Caps backwards
2. Bad solder job/solder missing from driver IC pads.
3. Missing screw from middle IC to heat sink.
Recommend fire extinguisher handy when first powering these up!
It’s pretty obvious – the one on the right is hooked up to a power source. That’s going to draw significantly more current than the two that are isolated.
/s
I thought the difference was that the middle heatsinked IC was backwards or otherwise just not attached to the heatsink.
I guess $2 a pop from China doesn’t get you the best QC
I was guessing the middle one is counterfeit
It’s a yin and yang thing 🙂 These boards are built for two different universes where polarity is different.
At least you know they were tested before the manufacturer shipped them 🙂
Besides the caps, it looks like board 3 is just a coated perf board, with cheaper parts. Even the power diodes are differently numbered on board 3, plus smaller in size. The first two boards use an M7F power diode and board 3 uses a cheaper, A7 power diode. Ouch.
I uhh… Don’t see it? I’ve used these drivers before but can’t seem to see the issue.
I see.. The caps arw reversed when compared to the module that’s connected with wires. I thought I was comparing the two to the left
Jumpers